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TI MSP430 Launchpad for $4.30 – Update

bluehash — Wed, 23 Jun 2010 19:03:17 +0000

TI just launched a cheap and easy to use development tool based on the MSP430 low power microcontroller. The Launchpad includes a development board, 2 programmable MSP430 micrcontrollers and a mini USB cable.

This is a very slick deal for beginners and hobbyists who wish to learn the chip. The Launchpad wiki is a good place to start. You can order kits by following the clicking the banner on the top of the wiki. You can also order from the TI-eStore or Mouser. Shipping is free from TI!

Update 1(July 02, 2010):
The Makers WorkBench posted details of a short Q&A with TI’s product marketing manager, Adrian Fernandez. He mentions that “Arduinio type shields” for the Launchpad are in the works and the $4.30 price is here to stay!

If this deal is helpful, leave a comment below. :)

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Microchip Explorer 16 Development Kit Hacks

bluehash — Sun, 06 Jun 2010 15:04:33 +0000

The Explorer 16 is Microchip’s controller development boards for evaluating its 16 and 32-bit microcontrollers. While searching the web for reviews about the baord and its feasability, I came across [P]hillip Burgess’ website detailing some cool hacks that can be done on the board and also save you money.

Explorer 16 Development Board

Hack1 – Use the built is ICSP connector on the board itself, instead of running around for a RJ11 – ICSP cable. Its been there since the earlier revisions of the board. One thing to remember though is that the slickscreen numbers on the connector are reversed. Pin1 is Pin6. All you need is a 6 pin header.

Hack2 – Program the chip without using an ICSP programmer. Use the “forgotten” onboard programmer. [R]afal Waniurski managed to come up with a firmware for the programming micro( a PIC18F4550 ). All you need is an external programmer to initially program the chip and your ready to program your main controller. [P]hil details the type of USB connectors required for this operation.

Hack3 – Power your development board through the USB port rather than the power jack. All you need is two Schottky diodes. Not that connecting to USB port allows for a maximum of 200ma draw. If you are connecting additional PICTail boards( like the graphics board), you may need to use the dc power jack.

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Surfing the Web with a 1964 300baud Acoustic Coupled Livermore modem.

bluehash — Fri, 29 May 2009 00:41:24 +0000

This hack is so impressive that I had to put it up here. I am really surprised that a dated piece of hardware[circa 1964] can still work with today’s technology.
[p]hreakMonkey got his hands on a Livermore acoustic modem and managed to get it online and download a Wikipedia page.

What’s really amazing is that the modem works by placing an old school telephone over the modem’s “receiver” and communicates using acoustic tones. The only challenging part for [p]hreakMonkey was to search for an appropriate DB9-DB25 connector. He used minicom, which is a Linux terminal (equivalent to Hyperterminal in Windows) to talk to the modem.

Check the video below:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9dpXHnJXaE

Info via[Hackaday]

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Taking Apart the ATV-360 EyePiece [Head Mounted Display]

bluehash — Sat, 14 Feb 2009 20:10:59 +0000

As promised, after taking apart the ATV-360 Spy Video here, this is a follow-up on taking apart the Head Mounted Display[HUD]. The HUD has some very interesting DIY parts and ideas which you can try out. Maybe a cool wearable. The details on all the parts used are at the end of the post and comments are open for discussion.

The HUD consists of a frame which sits in the same way as you would wear a pair of spectacles. On the right side, a case is attached which holds all the necessary electronics and optics. The HUD receives video signals from the remote which houses the camera receiver. If you are interested, you can buy the full vehicle kit at Amazon.

1. First for a few views. Click on the views for a larger image.

2. So that you know how it looks, I setup two scenes. One with a PostIt note saying “HI” and the other a Rubik’s cube. The LCD is monocohrome however, so the image you will see is not color.

The one with the PostIt note
The one with the Rubiks cube

3. Opening is not that easy as there are no screws to take apart the top cover which says “Spy Gear”. The cover is glued to the case using glue. Taking a clue from Jake to avoid inserting the screwdriver on the side the “cable does not come out”, I managed to take it apart. Pry the side where the black cable comes out. The other side has the LCD connector, you might damage it if ou pry that side. It’s tough at first, but once you get one side, it gets easier.

4. Once the cover is removed, the PCB becomes visible. The main controller chip is a Kopin KCD-A300-QB. All the other parts are support components for the chip. There is a small potentiometer in one corner which allows you to change camera gain. You can see the display change in brightness when you change it. Try adjusting it, there is no harm in doing so as it can easily be bough back to it’s previous value by looking at the screen.

5. Remove the two screws keeping the PCB in place. Also it’s time to remove the LCD connector. To remove it, pull the black tab out a bit as in the pic.
The connector will slip out easily with a slight tug. The connector is pretty rugged. I have already plugged it in/out a few times.

6.The LCD connector is glued on to the casing. Remember to break it free before going ahead.

6: Four more screws need to be taken out to remove the eyepiece. Use a pair of pliers to do this.

7.Before I forget, the PCB has a high output smd LED behind it as below:

8. Prying out gives you the lens casing. It’s pretty well made, with the LCD nicely sitting in it’s place. It was designed so that the lens was at a fixed distance from the LCD.

9.Going further, pry the top half with a flat head screwdriver. There are four tiny rods which keep it inline. This part should come out easily.

9.Now for the LCD. The LCD is in a tiny casing which sits in a grooved box. There is a slight amount of glue on one end as in the image. With a flat head screwdriver, as shown, just give a tiny nudge and it should come free.

10. The LCD in all it’s glory!

11. The following views show the three pieces of the lens casing. Note that the part at the extreme right of each image has a diffused screen to spread light from the SMD LED.

12. This was as far as I could go. The eyepiece is glued together. Trying to take it apart would mean risk in breaking the lens.

Parts and Notes:
Main controller chip :: Kopin KCD-A300-QB
Documents :: kopin_kcd-a300-qb_dsiplay_driver
Notes :: This is the driver chip for the 300M LV monochrome display. It is designed to accept a standard monochrome video signal (525 or 625 lines), and convert it for the display. Unfortunately its a monochrome driver and not a color one.

LCD Display :: Kopin 300MLV CyberDisplay
Documents :: kopin_cyberdisplay_300m_lv_feature_sheet
Notes :: This is the LCD Display with the connector. The feature sheet shows a frameless one, but I’m unable to find the document with the framed one.

If you find this interesting or have some new ideas or links, please post it in the comments. Thanks for reading and don’t forget to Subscribe [email] for more followups and hacks.

if you are interested in purchasing one, Amazon sells a full vehicle kit:

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